“SEASONING” THE PLASTIC GOLD PAN
It was common practice years ago and still is today, to “season” your steel or tin
(depending on what side of the equator you live on,) gold pan. Because oil and gold
in a pan don’t get along well, the most common procedure was to put your gold pan
into a fire, which sort of blued the pan and would burn off any oily contents on the
pan. After the heat treatment, some would also roughen the surface in different
spots inside their pan in various ways.
Today the most popular gold pans are made of different types of plastic and just like
the steel or tin pans of old, plastic pans need to be seasoned. Most plastic pans are
made using Injection Molds. In this process, oil is used to release the pan from the
mold. And to further add to the plastic gold pan problem, the cheaper made plastic
pans have oil as part of their material base, which stay forever!
Considering that you have bought a quality product, there are various ways to
season your plastic pan. One approach is to take a strong detergent along with
some gravel and water put into your pan then shaking it vigorously around for about
five minutes or so. After that I let the pan sit with the detergent, gravel and water for
a day or longer if needed. Usually this method will remove a good portion of the oil
coating. After a trip or two of panning, I find that the problem of oil coating is gone.
You can tell this by filling your pan with water, then, pour it out, watching the inside
surface of your pan for clinging bead droplets.
In a seasoned pan, the water should flow smoothly without forming droplets. On the
Maverick Finishing Pan, watch the water on the riffles for beading. When beading no
longer happens on the riffles, you are seasoned and good to go. This is also the
best time to install a "Grit Strip" if you use them. By having a Seasoned pan surface,
the Grit Strip adheres much better and therefor will give longer service.
Another approach that has some popularity is the use of alcohol. The method is to
swab the inside surface with alcohol.
I have tried both of these methods together and did not notice any significant
improvement in doing this. In fact, I have found that it is still usually necessary to
spend a trip or two down at your favorite panning spot to season your pan
completely even after using any of the above methods.
One last word. Do not try to sand paper or scour the surface of your plastic pan with
sand paper or steel wool in an attempt to rid it of the oil. In some pans, like the
Maverick Finishing Pan, it can hinder the action of the pan by doing this. Good luck
panning in the gold fields and may you always find gold in your pan. Cheers.
The Fossicker
Dennis Katz
It was common practice years ago and still is today, to “season” your steel or tin
(depending on what side of the equator you live on,) gold pan. Because oil and gold
in a pan don’t get along well, the most common procedure was to put your gold pan
into a fire, which sort of blued the pan and would burn off any oily contents on the
pan. After the heat treatment, some would also roughen the surface in different
spots inside their pan in various ways.
Today the most popular gold pans are made of different types of plastic and just like
the steel or tin pans of old, plastic pans need to be seasoned. Most plastic pans are
made using Injection Molds. In this process, oil is used to release the pan from the
mold. And to further add to the plastic gold pan problem, the cheaper made plastic
pans have oil as part of their material base, which stay forever!
Considering that you have bought a quality product, there are various ways to
season your plastic pan. One approach is to take a strong detergent along with
some gravel and water put into your pan then shaking it vigorously around for about
five minutes or so. After that I let the pan sit with the detergent, gravel and water for
a day or longer if needed. Usually this method will remove a good portion of the oil
coating. After a trip or two of panning, I find that the problem of oil coating is gone.
You can tell this by filling your pan with water, then, pour it out, watching the inside
surface of your pan for clinging bead droplets.
In a seasoned pan, the water should flow smoothly without forming droplets. On the
Maverick Finishing Pan, watch the water on the riffles for beading. When beading no
longer happens on the riffles, you are seasoned and good to go. This is also the
best time to install a "Grit Strip" if you use them. By having a Seasoned pan surface,
the Grit Strip adheres much better and therefor will give longer service.
Another approach that has some popularity is the use of alcohol. The method is to
swab the inside surface with alcohol.
I have tried both of these methods together and did not notice any significant
improvement in doing this. In fact, I have found that it is still usually necessary to
spend a trip or two down at your favorite panning spot to season your pan
completely even after using any of the above methods.
One last word. Do not try to sand paper or scour the surface of your plastic pan with
sand paper or steel wool in an attempt to rid it of the oil. In some pans, like the
Maverick Finishing Pan, it can hinder the action of the pan by doing this. Good luck
panning in the gold fields and may you always find gold in your pan. Cheers.
The Fossicker
Dennis Katz
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